How To Choose The Right Leather Jacket

If you're in the market to invest, here are the tips, fits and materials you need to know about.

Over the past half-century, the leather jacket has graduated from san item solely worn by guys in biker gangs to one of the most versatile outer-layers a man can own - as at home with your slim jeans on the weekend as it is thrown over your shirt and tie at the bar after work. In short, this is something that you're going to wear a lot when you get it in your wardrobe - so it pays to get it right.

Which leather is right for you?

Here's a quick guide to some of the most common types of leather. And if you're wondering, technically speaking, there is a simple difference between skins and hides - hides are the pelts of large animals, whereas skins come from small animals.

The Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) is extremely strict regarding these leathers, so when you buy from a reputable retailer you can be confident that your purchase will conform to the highest standards.

Calfskin

This is a leather from the hide of a calf. Typically, it is less than three years old. Calfskin is particularly soft, with a fine grain, and is very durable.

Shearling

This is skin from a recently sheared sheep that has been tanned and dressed with the wool left on. It has a suede surface on one side and a clipped fur surface on the other. It can be worn with either surface out.

Ostrich Leather

This is usually farmed in South Africa and is distinctive for its pattern of bumps. The intricate and specialised production process makes it an expensive material.

Ponyskin

This is often a misnomer - the "ponyskin" used by designers is, in reality, more often calfskin. If in doubt, you should check before buying.

Alligator and Crocodile

These are similar in texture and pattern, and are both composed from square and oblong scales known as tiles.

 

To tell the difference, if you examine them closely you will see that some skins have little dots close to the scale edge (crocodile), and others don't (alligator) - these are hair follicles. Alligator is usually considered the finer skin, but croc is harder-wearing.

Which style of leather jacket is right for you?

Bomber jacket

A short, hip-length jacket that's gathered tight at the waist and cuffs by elasticated bands of material, typically with a zip front and a collar.

Biker jacket

The most classic shape, and arguably the sleekest for smarter occasions, this jacket is characterised by a more tailored shape with a poppered-down lapel collar and a zip at the front (which, on true biker jackets, will run asymmetrically).

Baseball jacket

Similar to a bomber, but with a baseball-style, elasticated crew collar and often with sleeves sut in a contrasting colour or material (for example, suede).

Aviator jacket

Can be either cut like the bomber (traditional) or the biker (more modern), but is padded with shearling on the inside and often on the collar as well - originally designed as a way to keep fighter pilots warm in their jets during the Second World War.